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hey, i've cooked everything else :pleasant: biasing is not going so lekker. need to replace the 2k2 resistors with some 3k3's or something. and i don't have any :( back to communica tomorrow morning.

the cat's miaaauw??

new rectifiers are in and everything is cooking!  :clap: damn, i wish i had 6 multimeters so i could get this puppy biased already!

haven't had time to put in the new bridge rectifiers yet. Should hopefully get a chance tomorrow. 

i'm a bit confused. I'm not sure how my 1st round campaign contribution translates into the updated range of "perks".  :thinking:

right. how do i tell whether the secondary goes into the AC+ or the AC- ?

no kidding  :whistler: just to make sure, the markings on the doc isn't exactly clear, what side of the bridge rectifiers do the transformer secondaries go into? should it not be AC+ and AC- ?

ok, some testing on the bridge rectifiers reveal that "a diode is leaking current in the reverse-biased direction". awesome. i'll see if i can pick up a couple of replacements tomorrow at communica. lately i seem go there more often than i go to the shop to buy smokes.  :facepalm:

makes a huge difference. not integrating the sub into the eq would screw up the whole thing.

pretty sure there isn't a short on the PSU, unless one of the the drain resistors went open circuit. i'll replace those and check the bridge rectifiers. The thermistors on the PSU i've already replaced with nice big black 10ohm 6A ones : https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/thermistors/5167849/

OK, resistors between the voltage rails have already been replaced and should be fine. as far as i know the sprague caps should be good. that pretty much leaves the drain resistors, the thermistors, and the 33nf cap. should i be checking the bridge rectifiers?

seems the PSU is the culprit. unexpected, interesting.

confirmed, still blowing fuses. even though these are fast blow fuses (all i could find on short notice) that aint right. next step would be to identify the culprit - PSU or amp boards. Any tips on eliminating the usual suspects?

i'm trying to figure out what that bottom thingy is. some sort of amp? maybe the bass section of the speaker? (seems like those funky looking horns only go down to 140hz?)

Finally got everything put back together again, ready for biasing. I've hooked up the dim bulb tester for switch-on. the 40w i've got in there seems distressingly bright.

whaaa  :point:  :O0:

yeah, good luck with that. you will need a heat gun to dissolve the adhesive sticking the glass to the digitizer, and then somehow replace the glass without getting dust trapped underneath it. now you have the problem that as the glass is now no longer sealed to the lcd, various dust particles...

let me know when to send that courier  :rubhands:

just check if you can replace only the glass. Usually the glass is glued to the digitizer which is glued to the lcd. You normally have to replace the whole thing. With the S3 the reason why local repairs are so expensive is that they don't bother with the LCD at all, they just take off the whole...

I'm in optical fibre networking solutions. We do FTTH roll-outs to estates and business parks, and supply ISP services Video over IP services to such estates. I do some core network design, fibre backbone design, project management etc. We are also involved in biometric access control, and...