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Another thought, for on/off and volume control etc on the extra zones, you can swop the jamo out with a Sherwood RX 5502. Then you can control that with the IR over wifi device as well.

Ok, I'm a bit confused. You talk about a Zone 4, but the NR828 only has control for 3 zones? That makes control of the 4th zone a bit tricky, as i'm assuming your splitting the output of the 3rd zone to zone 3 & 4 speakers. There are a few ways to do this. You could look at Harmony Link...

Mr Valve has a couple of nice ones, but i get mine off ebay. Most of those chinese sites ship international for free, and the cost is low enough not to pick up customs charges. Only issue is the wait time, can take up to 4-6 weeks. Quality hasn't been a problem so far, as i usually go for solid...

afaik, a bit of paste between the mica pad and fet/resistor is the way to do it? or is that just when it is metal on metal?

absolutely, if you can make a saving that big and get from a local supplier, go for it. For the install I did in my dad's place, i had runs up to 60m over three floors with solid concrete walls & decks. at that stage the snapav unit was cheapest, and it works well. good luck!

I have one of the older ones. The newer ones are closer to 30w.

nope. rule of thumb is: light room & direct sunlight with lots of reflections - buy the LCD/LED. No direct sunlight, reasonably shaded room with toned colour walls etc - i'd have the plasma (and i did, i have a PS51F5500, and i love it :Whoohoo:)

Ok. I use a HP miniserver. it pulls a grand total of 15w when idle. so i just keep it on. I'f i had to switch it on & off every time, i'd pop a 60GB SSD in there and put openelec on that to be the boot drive. should boot in about 10secs. once you are used to XBMC, anything else is just going...

okiedoke. it's a lot of money in the AV world, but in the Home Automation world, not so much.  :o

are you serious? you actually switch your HTPC off between sessions? what kind of pc are you using?

ok, middle ground then. not too bad, .02V bias offset at 550mV, .02V DC offset on the binding posts. Hopefully the 2nd channel will go as well.

It's not quite that simple, you have to be a registered AV dealer or custom installer to open an account with them. Again there is shipping, import duties, & tax to consider. For the matrix unit + 4x baluns & 4x IR receivers + IR Transmitters should total around about R25k

If you have a single source that you need to pipe over a distance to one or more locations, you can simply have an HDMI switch with some HDMI to CAT6 baluns on both sides of your CAT6 cables. If you have two sources, say a HD PVR and a Media Box, and you need to be able to switch between them...

the "cheap" and simple way is usually Sonos, though with a little work you can make squeezebox or airplay work.

The trick is to switch EVERYTHING off before connecting the splitter. Hotplugging HDMI is a big no-no  :RTFM: An expensive lesson for us who've made that mistake. As far as HDMI over CAT5 is concerned, it can cheap & simple or expensive & a little complicated. Depends on whether you need IR...

ok thanks. Question on the biasing,  :thinking:  I'm assuming the quest here is to get a 0v reading on the binding posts? or is it more to get the readings across R11 and R12 stable at exactly the same voltages? Or some sort of middle ground between the two?

Got the MM phono kit, assembling now. Can't quite make out what goes where from the pic. Are there more detailed instructions somewhere?

gets pretty hot, but should be ok.

biasing....  biasing.......  :whip:

I bought a HP Media centre IR receiver on ebay for about $15 incl shipping, and am using it with my harmony. happiness. i also have one of these http://www.favientertainment.com/SmartStick-Keyboard-p/fe02rf-bl.htm that i use about 5 times as much as the harmony.