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Looking real good there Sean - well done! Will you be hooking it up on a "plankie" or are you going to wait until you have your casework sorted out? Kind regards, Ian.

I have a team of workers here ripping out around 60m^2 worth of damaged ceiling and brandering, replacing brandering, ensuring everything is level,  replacing ceiling boards, priming, replacing damaged cornicing, and all the rest that goes with that. Unfortunately I need to keep a near constant...

SOLD  :dop:

The next point of business was to add some features to the keel (that long curved piece I made last out of the Birch ply): First, I add some solid wood onto the ends.  One at a time: ...until I have all 4 glued on: Clamps removed: Next, I sanded those solid wooden pieces flat...

On the money! Kind regards, Ian.

Thank you for all your kind words Gents, much appreciated  :dop: Things may seem to be taking long and going slowly, but if you consider just how much work has gone into this project so far it is being done in record time.  This is by far the most complex build I have ever done - mostly because...

Progress has been a bit slow, but even one foot at a time gets you there  :2thumbs: I needed to make 2 large curved pieces.  Too large for MountainMan to handle, so it's the old fashioned way - by hand.  Using 20mm thick birch ply, doubled up to give 40mm thick.  The arc has a diameter of...

Thank you  :dop: Thanks!  You think those drivers will be awesome in this?  :sh1tstirrer:      :EGrin: Some more pics: Here you can see the first 4 ribs have been stained and oiled.  The others are still raw: All stained and oiled: I oil the wood reasonably heavily...

Dry fit (test fit): :thumbs: Kind regards, Ian.

There is no such thing as making wood flat by placing a weight on it ( assuming you mean natural solid wood here, not a man made thing like ply or mdf). The reason the wood is bowing is because there are internal stresses I side the plank.  By placing a heavy load on it for weeks doesn't do...

The reason they specify a close fit is because you don't want a huge crater around the driver because of a largely oversized cutout.  It can cause diffraction problems, etc.  A 1mm gap won't be much of a problem tho. Mechanically the fasteners will hold the driver more than enough so no worries...

Looking good so far!  I am sure you are getting anxious to hear them  :rubhands: How will you be finishing the speakers? Paint or veneer? Perhaps what I do - just leave it raw mdf  :facepalm: Sorry to hear about your driver recess fitment problems.  Been there, done that.  You will see the...

With the milling work on the ribs all done the next thing I needed to do was to saw a 5 degree angle onto the edge of each rib.  Now because the ribs are curved it is very difficult to line them up with the saw in any normal way.  The answer?  Create a fixture jig which will line things up and...

Please check again in 15 minutes.  :thumbs: @Seans - I have sent you a PDF with the board layout as requested. Kind regards, Ian.

Hi Alan, You are welcome to pop around and have a listen to what I have here in JHB    :thumbs: Kind regards, Ian.

Busy performing the final bits of machining on the ribs - nearly time to move onto the next thing  ;) This is a pic showing the fixturing I am using on MountainMan: Some detailing on the ribs: Kind regards, Ian.

That's actually a very good idea!  Thanks  :dop:

I will email it to you  :dop:

Hi Gents, I am glad you are satisfied with the quality of the boards  :dop:  The manufacturers really do a good job - I have not had any issues. Good luck with your builds & please let me know if anything isn't documented well or doesn't make sense!  The more input I get the better I can make...

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