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Try Aladia's kitchen, Fredenharry Rd, Shop 16, Strubens Valley Shopping Centre. Haven't had their bunnys, but their samoosas are top notch.

It depends on the individual inverter, for instance my old Infinisolar inverter could take 5kW from the panels (or Eskom) to feed the loads and an extra 5kW from Eskom to charge the batteries, so that's 10kW total flowing through the inverter. It couldn't push more than about 5.5kW through to...

Yup, it's all about how much you're willing to change your lifestyle. I had a 5kW inverter before I upgraded to an 8kW inverter 7 months ago. You can do a lot with a 5kW inverter, we had all our lights (LEDs) and plug points connected to it. It would happily run our lights, the TV, AVR, two...

Only a pleasure! Hopefully it'll help you with your decision making. (y) Good stuff, a few of the guys here have very decent setups, @Wolla, @naboo, @Sarel.wagner and @Family_Dog has a monster system. Hopefully that gent give you good advice and check your usage patterns properly. Most...

Depending on your electricity usage, the right 5kW inverter may be enough, I'll explain further down why I highly recommend a Sunsynk/Deye inverter and why it'll allow you to possibly use a smaller inverter, but still maximise the power produced by your panels. You can definitely do this, but...

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: Half the population must be robots then!..

Or get a 220v to 24V transformer, if you put 110V into the primary, you'll get 12V out the secondary. One thing if you do go this route, your transformer power rating will be less at 110V as the impedence on the windings are higher due to it being a 220V transformer. So if you need a 200VA...

:devilish: You'll just have to get another driver and build a dual opposed monster! That's my next project, I'll be kicked out the house, but it'll be worth it. :ROFLMAO:

Just checking the ports at the top of the box, a general rule of thumb is that the gap between the end of the port and the box panel should be at least the same as the diameter of the port, i.e. in your case, 110mm or more. Also, I'm guessing 10Hz is below the tuning of the ports, so the air...

:) Still have my Amigas. Have a C64 that @Murray got for me from a thrift shop for R1. 🤣

Excellent info. Thanks!

There are many ways to flare a port, I've found this to be the easiest way if you're using PVC pipe. Insert the PVC pipe right up to the outside edge of the board and glue it in place. I used standard 75mm PVC pipe to make these ports. Use the largest roundover bit you can get for your...

Yup, generally long ports and especially small diameter long ports aren't great. However, these are dual 110mm ports so they shouldn't be a problem. Not gonna chuff, even at extreme levels.

Thank goodness you don't live in SA, we'd be on stage 8 load shedding with all your amps biased that high! :ROFLMAO:

Nice one bro! Glad you finally managed to finish it. (y)

I've sent you a PM

WOW!!! That thing is a monster! 188mm voice coil! Now you won't have to worry about the voice coil burning out, you'll have to worry about your house shaking apart.. :ROFLMAO: With such an impressive driver, it'll definitely be worthwhile building a really decent box for it. Keep experimenting...

That's what really counts, you'll learn so much more and so much quicker when you get your hands dirty. Doesn't matter that you fail at times or that it sounds really crap. I've built a few subs and speakers that were truly aweful, but you get better as you build more. I'd say it is essential...

Oops! Unlucky.. 😣 That's the thing when starting out with DIY, it's pretty much R&D until you get it right, but once you get it right, it's really satisfying. Often DIY builds are much better than commercial stuff costing twice as much.

Solid bracing is essential to any sub box, especially with 16mm chipboard. A large driver like that 15" will produce a lot of internal pressure and the box will definitely flex and produce unwanted noise. This is how I did the bracing on "The Washing Machine" as my brothers call it.