This is the build thread for the Daytons I bought from Xumbug.
The tuning for these subs where discussed on HTS here:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/28745-llt-airspeed-vs-port-resonance.html#post262038
(There are SPL, port air speed etc graphs in that thread)
The subs are a pair of large sonosubs. 350L and tuned to 17Hz, with 2 150mm ports each.
Started cutting out some discs last weekend but ran into a problem when we discovered that one of the tubes was slightly oval. (No idea how that happened.) So basically the build process started full swing yesterday.
The main tubes are 2m tall, 13mm thick (slightly overkill but that was what I could get) and have an internal diameter of 506mm. The smaller tubes are the ports and have 150mm internal diameters with 5mm walls. Think pink will be used to dampen the top to bottom resonances.
Here's a shot of me holding the Dayton 15". Also gives some perspective on the size of the tubes:
The oval tube I couldn't get back into shape with my full body weight on it (Wouldn't budge at all). So I clamped it between two beams with some ratchet straps. Worked beautifully.
Here's a shot of Anton's (NoSnipeLimit) router jig, it works well. Btw this is the first time I've done any woodworking besides what we did in school and I love this router. Eats through that MDF like its not even there.
On Saturday I bought 3 clamps thinking they would be enough but you can see clearly by the slight gaps (though filled with glue) where there wasn't any clamp pressure. Here is a shot of the part of the bottom end-cap that fits inside the tube:
So this morning I bought some more clamps. Here the top end-cap is drying:
Here are shots of the top end-cap with the slots for the ports cut 1/2 way through.
Then cut out the port holes from the top with a diameter slightly less than the internal port diameter. Then cut a piece of the port tubing and put it on the inside of the port holes as a guide to trim these holes the same diameter as the port tubes using a flush trim router bit.
This is the biggest rounding bit I could find that still fit in Anton's router. About 2mm clearance on the sides. When I bought it they said it's a 1 1/8" rounding bit but the final rounding radius I get with it is about 23.5mm
Here the external ports have been rounded with this bit:
A test fit if the top end-cap and the port tubes. They will be trimmed to the correct length later on.
Some shots of the driver being test fit in the bottom end-cap. The spec sheet for this driver on part-express.com showed the mounting holes where just bigger than 6mm. So I bought some 6mm allen caps and when I tried to fit them the holes in the driver where way way smaller and I had to drill them bigger.
Here's Anton posing next to a mock up assembly. The legs there are just some more cardboard tubes we cut to the correct length.
Will continue the build next weekend. ;D
The tuning for these subs where discussed on HTS here:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/28745-llt-airspeed-vs-port-resonance.html#post262038
(There are SPL, port air speed etc graphs in that thread)
The subs are a pair of large sonosubs. 350L and tuned to 17Hz, with 2 150mm ports each.
Started cutting out some discs last weekend but ran into a problem when we discovered that one of the tubes was slightly oval. (No idea how that happened.) So basically the build process started full swing yesterday.
The main tubes are 2m tall, 13mm thick (slightly overkill but that was what I could get) and have an internal diameter of 506mm. The smaller tubes are the ports and have 150mm internal diameters with 5mm walls. Think pink will be used to dampen the top to bottom resonances.
Here's a shot of me holding the Dayton 15". Also gives some perspective on the size of the tubes:
The oval tube I couldn't get back into shape with my full body weight on it (Wouldn't budge at all). So I clamped it between two beams with some ratchet straps. Worked beautifully.
Here's a shot of Anton's (NoSnipeLimit) router jig, it works well. Btw this is the first time I've done any woodworking besides what we did in school and I love this router. Eats through that MDF like its not even there.
On Saturday I bought 3 clamps thinking they would be enough but you can see clearly by the slight gaps (though filled with glue) where there wasn't any clamp pressure. Here is a shot of the part of the bottom end-cap that fits inside the tube:
So this morning I bought some more clamps. Here the top end-cap is drying:
Here are shots of the top end-cap with the slots for the ports cut 1/2 way through.
Then cut out the port holes from the top with a diameter slightly less than the internal port diameter. Then cut a piece of the port tubing and put it on the inside of the port holes as a guide to trim these holes the same diameter as the port tubes using a flush trim router bit.
This is the biggest rounding bit I could find that still fit in Anton's router. About 2mm clearance on the sides. When I bought it they said it's a 1 1/8" rounding bit but the final rounding radius I get with it is about 23.5mm
Here the external ports have been rounded with this bit:
A test fit if the top end-cap and the port tubes. They will be trimmed to the correct length later on.
Some shots of the driver being test fit in the bottom end-cap. The spec sheet for this driver on part-express.com showed the mounting holes where just bigger than 6mm. So I bought some 6mm allen caps and when I tried to fit them the holes in the driver where way way smaller and I had to drill them bigger.
Here's Anton posing next to a mock up assembly. The legs there are just some more cardboard tubes we cut to the correct length.
Will continue the build next weekend. ;D
