As per subject.
I have two Osram KT66 valves which had loose bases. I posted here for some advice of how to repair them and I think Winders suggested I use superglue. I thought about this recommendation but finally decided against it as one cannot always trust even brands of superglue I regularly use, secondly I didn't want the stuff to run all over into the bakelite bases and thirdly, superglue has a fairly low melting point.
So, after careful consideration, I used Araldite "90 minute" slow setting epoxy and made a very neat repair of first the one KT66 about 3 weeks ago and did the second valve yesterday evening.
I don't want to relate all the cleaning of glue contact areas but everything was spotlessly clean and all loose cement was removed beforehand.
I also kept a "control" blob of the same Araldite I used to monitor the glue's setting which was according to spec, cured rock hard by this morning.
Now comes the "In a fix" bit. A friend on another forum asked me to give a description of the repair procedure and as soon as I wrote it, someone else posted this link http://www.jacmusic.com/accesories/Tube-Glue-/tube-glue-.html
The alarming thing about the link states that if epoxy type adhesive is used, the glass envelope will crack at presumably the area where the glue was applied after a few months.
There is no-way I will be able to either dissolve the glue I applied or remove it with mechanical means as I "worked" the Araldite into the bakelite base, using a very fine sliver of a bamboo toothpick.
What do you think of all of this? Should I take it with a pinch of salt? Is it a ploy to only buy the punted valve repair cement? There are pics showing my repair to the valves here www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=4559;sa=showPosts
At present, the valves are "resting" while the Araldite is curing and they will only be used several months from now.
skollie
I have two Osram KT66 valves which had loose bases. I posted here for some advice of how to repair them and I think Winders suggested I use superglue. I thought about this recommendation but finally decided against it as one cannot always trust even brands of superglue I regularly use, secondly I didn't want the stuff to run all over into the bakelite bases and thirdly, superglue has a fairly low melting point.
So, after careful consideration, I used Araldite "90 minute" slow setting epoxy and made a very neat repair of first the one KT66 about 3 weeks ago and did the second valve yesterday evening.
I don't want to relate all the cleaning of glue contact areas but everything was spotlessly clean and all loose cement was removed beforehand.
I also kept a "control" blob of the same Araldite I used to monitor the glue's setting which was according to spec, cured rock hard by this morning.
Now comes the "In a fix" bit. A friend on another forum asked me to give a description of the repair procedure and as soon as I wrote it, someone else posted this link http://www.jacmusic.com/accesories/Tube-Glue-/tube-glue-.html
The alarming thing about the link states that if epoxy type adhesive is used, the glass envelope will crack at presumably the area where the glue was applied after a few months.
There is no-way I will be able to either dissolve the glue I applied or remove it with mechanical means as I "worked" the Araldite into the bakelite base, using a very fine sliver of a bamboo toothpick.
What do you think of all of this? Should I take it with a pinch of salt? Is it a ploy to only buy the punted valve repair cement? There are pics showing my repair to the valves here www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=4559;sa=showPosts
At present, the valves are "resting" while the Araldite is curing and they will only be used several months from now.
skollie
